Leg 13: Tony and Ernie’s Big Adventure Ends – Edmonton to Vancouver

August 7th, 2009

The Rockies near Jasper

The Rockies near Jasper

Leg 13: Edmonton – Yellowhead Pass – Kamloops – Vancouver

Thursday, August 6

Distance: 1,075 kilometres (+ 200 kilometres, Edmonton – Entwistle and return)

Flying time: 6.6 hours (Ernie: 4.3; Tony 2.3)

Edmonton to Entwistle – and back

Charlie parked at Edmonton City Airport, with two corporate jets behind

Charlie parked at Edmonton City Airport, with two corporate jets behind

Although the last leg home, this proved to be the most challenging of all. When we woke up, Edmonton City Centre had scattered clouds at 2,500 feet above ground level and broken clouds at 6,000 feet. West of the Rockies (Prince George, Wiliams Lake and Kamloops) it was clear. There was a front coming in from the Pacific that was expected to reach Vancouver in a day or two. It was clear we should try to get home today if we could.

Although Edmonton is almost due north of Calgary, it is much further away from the Rockies (just under 300 kilometres), because the Rockies run north west at about 45 degrees. One advantage of this is that there are fewer mountain ranges to cross. Once through the Yellowhead Pass near Jasper, we turn almost due south, following the river valleys, all the way to Kamloops.

Ernie took off just after 9.00 am and we headed east. We had gone about 50 kilometres when the clouds became broken and lower, down at times to 1,500 above the ground. Ernie decided to climb above the low cloud, as we knew the Rockies were clear. However, the lower layer was thicker than we anticipated, and above the lower layer was another strata of cloud at about 10,000 feet. As Ernie climbed ever higher to get above the lower level of cloud, it became clear that the two levels of cloud were coming closer together and the lower level was thickening.

It was too dangerous to continue, so Ernie did a 180 degree turn, then tried to find a hole in the clouds to begin our descent. He found one somewhere over Wabamum Lake, but when we eventually came out, the cloud was now down to 1,000 feet above ground in places. There are two power stations on Wabamum Lake with smokestacks at 500 feet, and all along the Yellowhead Trail, which was our route back, there were equally tall wireless towers. There were scattered rain showers and poor visibility and we scudded back to Edmonton City Centre airport, keeping over the Yellowhead Highway as much as possible and as high as possible to avoid the towers. We were relieved to find Edmonton much clearer.

Downtown Edmonton

Downtown Edmonton

Soth-central Edmonton

South-central Edmonton

We parked the plane again, and headed out for a coffee and a snack.

Edmonton to Kamloops

We got back to the airport and called flight services again for a weather report. The cloud west of Edmonton was thinning, and the satellite picture still showed the Rockies along the Yellowhead to be reasonably clear, with high, scattered clouds. Kamloops was clear, so once again, Ernie took off and headed west. The first 45 minutes or so were somewhat similar to our aborted trip, with low clouds and poor visibility. The further west we went though, the better the conditions and after an hour Ernie was able to climb through the clouds and at around 10,500 feet we were clear, with broken cloud below us. There was though a strong headwind.

McLeod River near Hornbeck

McLeod River near Hornbeck

In another 45 minutes we had passed Hinton and were starting through the Rockies through Jasper Lake. By now, we were heading due south.

Brûlé Lake

Brûlé Lake

Brûlé Lake (right) and Jasper Lake

Brûlé Lake (right) and Jasper Lake

10,000 feet over the Miette Range (the Yellowhead Highway is at the top of the picture)

10,000 feet over the Miette Range (the Yellowhead Highway is at the top of the picture)

At the town of Jasper, we made a sharp right turn (west) through the Yellowhead Pass to Valemont, where we again turned south. The Fraser River starts in the Yellowhead Pass, then flows north and west from Valemont, before turning south again at Prince George.

Over the Yellowhead Pass, looking north (Jasper National Park)

Over the Yellowhead Pass, looking north (Jasper National Park)

A high, glaciated valley, above and north of the Yellowhead Pass

A high, glaciated valley, above and north of the Yellowhead Pass

Moose lake, Yellowhead Pass (looking west)

Moose lake, Yellowhead Pass (looking west)

Mount Robson (13,000 feet)

Mount Robson (13,000 feet)

Valemont

Valemont

Looking north along the Fraser River, north of Valemont

Looking north along the Fraser River, north of Valemont

The Thompson River’s head is just south of Valemont, and both we and the Yellowhead Highway South followed the North Thompson River south all the way to Kamloops.

Columbia Mountains, looking east

Columbia Mountains, looking east

Glacier, Columbia Mountains

Glacier, Columbia Mountains

Another glacier, Columbia Mountains

Another glacier, Columbia Mountains

And another glacier, Columbia Mountains

And another glacier, Columbia Mountains

Steep cliffs, near Blue River

Steep cliffs, near Blue River

Cliffs, south of Blue River

Cliffs, south of Blue River

Although before we started from Boundary Bay, I was worried that the return through the Rockies would be the most difficult part of the whole trip, this did not turn out to be so. The weather was clear, and after a flight of approximately four hours from Edmonton, Ernie landed safely in Kamloops. But the most difficult part of the whole trip was to come.

Kamloops from the north

Kamloops from the north

Kamloops airport

Kamloops airport

Kamloops to Pitt Meadows

After re-fuelling I called flight services for an update on the weather. It was a rather unusual report. First, there was thick smoke in parts of the Fraser Canyon due to two forest fires, one near Lilloet, and one at Terrace Mountain, north of Kelowna. 34 miles north west of Hope, there was a restricted area up to 7,000 feet, where firefighting aircraft were operating. Hope was clear, but between Chilliwack and Langley, low marine cloud had been hanging about all day, with ceilings as low as 1,500 feet. It was expected to clear by the time we got there, but then it had been expected to clear earlier in the day. Pitt Meadows was clear, with broken cloud at 4,500 feet.

By the time I took off, it was almost 5.00 pm Pacific (having gained an hour from Alberta) We decided to stay high and I climbed to 7,500 feet, heading west to Ashcroft along the Thompson River, then to Lytton, where the Thompson and the Fraser joined together. The weather was reasonably good, with some haze, but otherwise clear.

Train on north shore of Kamloops Lake

Train on north shore of Kamloops Lake

However, when we entered the Fraser Canyon at Lytton, we immediately came into thick smoke, with visibility suddently down to less than five miles. Ernie urged me to climb, and we had to get to 10,500 to get over the smoke. Fortunately, at 10,500 feet, we were well clear of the tops of the mountains, and could rely on instruments for direction.

Smoke near Lytton

Smoke near Lytton

Smoke thickening

Smoke thickening

As we passed down the Fraser Canyon, there were several small fires burning.

A fire in the Fraser Canyon

A fire in the Fraser Canyon

The combination of a sun low on the horizon and the smoke created interesting light.

Looking west, 50 kilometres north of Hope

Looking west, 50 kilometres north of Hope

Although most of the smoke had faded, visibility was not good, and so we had to lose height as we approached Hope. About 15 kilometres north of Hope, we looked right and saw over the mountains to the west of Hope what I first thought was snow, but must have been thick cloud. This must be the marine cloud that the weather forecast mentioned.

Thick cloud over the mountains west of Hope

Thick cloud over the mountains west of Hope

The Fraser River takes a very sharp right turn at Hope through a narrow valley. As I approached over the city at about 2,500 feet, it became extremely bumpy. I hit a bad air pocket and dropped suddenly about 300 feet. I had to slow the plane down. Hope has a long grass landing strip, and as we turned right, we heard on the radio that someone was landing there. However, as we turned the corner, we were faced with what looked like a wall of white mist.

P1010482The cloud was rolling off the top of the mountain on the right side of the valley, but the sun was shining through on the left hand side just enough for us to be able to see the highway and the left hand side of the river. The valley here is less than two kilometres wide with mountains going up steeply to over 6000 feet on either side. We had to decide whether to continue or land at Hope. We decided to continue along the river at 1,500 feet while we could see at least five miles ahead.

Gradually, the valley widened, and about 15 kilometres along the river from Harrison Lake we had an amazing view.

Over the Fraser River - Harrison Lake is behind the mountain to the right

Over the Fraser River - Harrison Lake is behind the mountain, to the right

We still had to fly low along the river, but as we neared Mission we could see the cloud beginning to clear ahead.

P1010487Over Mission

By the time we reached Pitt Meadows, the low cloud had completely lifted – we were home, safe and sound, after travelling over 12,000 kilometres, through one of the worse summers for weather across Canada.

P1010490Coming into land on Runway 18 at Pitt Meadows

For blogs on the other legs of the flight, see list under pages in right hand column at the top of the blog.

Reflections on flying across Canada in a small plane

August 19th, 2009
Ernie Naesgaard and Tony Bates
Ernie Naesgaard and Tony Bates

Why?

Good question. It was expensive, at times quite stressful, and with a strong element of risk. The weather was not always kind to us, and we often ended the day exhausted – and I didn’t get a cappuccino for three weeks!

The main reason is that I’ve always wanted to travel right across Canada in a way that would enable me to ‘feel’ how big Canada is. Driving would have done it, but I prefer flying my own plane. Flying across Canada has been an ambition of mine ever since I started flying a small plane.

Second, I wanted to stretch my flying experience. I am a fair weather flyer normally, and avoid flying in anything that might be challenging, in terms of weather. However, pilots should know how to deal with bad weather.

Managing bad weather near Hope

Managing bad weather near Hope

Even with the most careful planning, you can run into unexpectedly bad weather. On a trip like this, you have to make difficult judgements and decisions. I took advantage of flying with a group of more experienced pilots, and especially had Ernie to learn from. I feel I’m now in a much better position to judge when it’s safe to fly, and when it isn’t, without waiting for the weather always to be perfect. And we certainly had weather on this trip.

Third, I wanted to see friends along the way. It was great to see Maxim and Lise, Diane Janes, and Jean Watters and Renee Bourbeau. Other friends were away at the time, so I couldn’t see everyone I wanted to, but then we had a schedule to fly.

Lastly, there was John Lovelace’s Cross Canada Century Flight, celebrating the 100th anniversary of the first powered flight in Canada. This alone would have made the trip worthwhile. It provided a timeline and structure, and most importantly, ensured ground and air support from local flying clubs, airports and NavCanada flight services.

P1010004

So in brief, the trip enabled me to personally experience Canadian geography, culture and history, while indulging my passion for flying.

Facts

Distance travelled: NM 6,791 = 12,577 kilometres (approximately)

No. of provinces visited: 9 (BC, Alberta, Saskatchewan, Manitoba, Ontario, Québec, New Brunswick, Nova Scotia, PEI).

No. of different airports visited: 27 (only Sudbury and Kamloops twice). No. of take-offs and landings: 29

Flight time (from engine start-up to shut-off): 82.8 hrs (Tony: 47.1; Ernie: 35.7) over 14 days

Time in air (from take-off to landing): 70.2 hours

Total time (with breaks): 22 days

Average air speed: 96.7 knots = 179 kilometres per hour

Total fuel consumption: 2,127 liters = 5.9 kilometres per litre, or 17 litres per 100 kilometres

Beers drunk: not recorded (or remembered).

What did I learn?

1. The privilege and community of flying

I put this first, because it was the biggest learning curve for me. In the past, I paid for lessons, bought a plane, paid for the maintenance, tried to follow the rules and procedures as best I can. I took the rest for granted.

What I began to really appreciate along the way are all the services provided to make flying possible and safe. Private pilots like myself are not running a commercial or public service (such as firefighting). We fly primarily for fun. Yet we have access to excellent flight services from NavCanada. These provide, usually 24 hours a day, access to the latest weather forecasts, notification of  areas where flying will be difficult or restricted, and advice and guidance, both on the ground and in the air. They are invariable helpful and cheerful.

Air traffic control manages the airways, mainly around busy airports, and helps separate aircraft and keep them safe. We have access to exactly the same services as the commercial flights. Air traffic controllers quite rightly reprimand us when we make mistakes, but most of the time, they are courteous and exceedingly helpful, going above and beyond their minimal duties. For instance, they would often track us by radar when outside their zone but in other areas of busy traffic, and warn us of potential conflict with other traffic.

The flying clubs and airport staff all along the route, without exception, were hospitable and helpful. For the Century Flight, even the smallest airport had local volunteers who provided free refreshments and often free shuttle buses to local hotels.

Breakfast provided by volunteers at Calgary Springbank airport

Breakfast provided by volunteers at Calgary Springbank airport

I want to mention particularly the staff at Shell aero service stations. Often there are computers and telephones in these centres for pilots to help with flight planning, and free coffee, and the staff were always willing to provide advice on restaurants and hotels, even in some cases getting us preferred rates at local hotels. At Timmins, one of their staff (Gabe) came out on his day off to help get the plane started when our battery drained over night.

I realised at last that I was part of a very special community – the Canadian flying community. It is a privilege to fly almost anywhere I want in Canada, and to know I will be supported and helped along the way.

2. The importance of a good co-pilot

Even without a co-pilot, I would probably have tried to make this trip. I doubt though whether I would have been successful without Ernie.

Ernie with Tony

Ernie with Tony

No matter how experienced a pilot you are, you can always learn from another experienced pilot. When you are flying eight hour legs, you need two pilots, because of fatigue. The longest leg I flew was five hours, and I was exhausted that day (weather was bad, we couldn’t get into an airport and had to return, etc.). Ernie also was rated for over the top flying and I wasn’t, and it was necessary several times, or we would have been stuck for days.

VFR above the clouds

VFR above the clouds

Also, when you are spending six to eight hours every day in a tiny cockpit with someone else, no to mention travelling everywhere together for three weeks, it is really important that you get on. I had never met or been in touch with Ernie six weeks before the flight – he answered my e-mail request for a co-pilot sent through the Aero Club of BC. He is much more experienced than I am, since he has been flying since 1969. We are very different personalities and we also fly very differently. Nevertheless it worked extremely well. I am exceedingly grateful for Ernie’s patience, painstaking planning, and his mastery of flying with a GPS.

3. The majesty of Canada

I had travelled to many parts of Canada before making this trip, but either to extreme wilderness (the Yukon, northern BC) or mainly the larger cities (Montreal, Calgary, Toronto, Halifax, etc.). This trip was mainly about small town Canada – Swift Current, Brandon, Dryden, Morden, Sydney, Matane, etc. – divided by huge tracts of largely uninhabited land.

Everywhere we went, people were friendly and hospitable. I like to travel by public transport whenever possible and I had a couple of interesting bus trips, one in Brandon and one in Regina (interesting, because I didn’t know the route, and wasn’t sure I’d get to where I was intending to g0). This is where you will find both the old and the new Canadians – aboriginals, teenagers, new immigrants and temporary workers – in small town Canada. Since many new immigrants, teenagers and temporary workers often are not qualified to drive in Canada – or cannot afford to run a car – public transit for them is essential.

Even though they were the closest to home, the highlight of the trip, both going out and coming back, were the Rockies. Both times we had superb weather through the Rockies (distinguishing the actual Rockies from the six other mountain ranges in the west). Flying through the Rockies is a truly unique experience. The only time I have ever had vertigo is flying in the Rockies. Looking down, the mountain sides sometimes drop almost vertically for 10,000 feet.

Looking down, crossing a ridge near Jasper

Looking down, crossing a ridge near Jasper

The Rockies are stunningly beautiful, especially the high valleys, which are unseen from the road.

De-glaciated valley north of the Yellowhead Pass

De-glaciated valley north of the Yellowhead Pass

Other areas I found particularly beautiful are Prince Edward Island, the north shore of Nova Scotia, and Cape Breton. But then, I am an islander, and I love the sea.

Over Prince Edward Island

Over Prince Edward Island

In the end, I still think I fly in one of the best places in the world. In BC we have sea, high mountains, deep valleys, isolated islands, a wonderful shore line, the Okanagan, and the wilderness in the north.

Yes, Canada IS big. There are vast areas right across the country that are still isolated and remote, with very few people living there. And we saw only the most southerly 10 per cent of the country. The vastness of Canada’s boreal forests must be an exceedingly important component of a balanced climate and environment.

P1010291Lake of the Woods: a climate generator

Their loss, whether from over-logging, mining, oil and gas extraction, or death by pine beetle, would be truly catastrophic. Wherever we went we saw evidence of mining, forestry and dams.

P1010453Mine tailings near Ashcroft, BC

Canada has done well with preserving large tracts through national and provincial parks, but more needs to be done if we are to prevent an environmental disaster. Which brings me to my last point.

4. Flying and the environment

I have been struggling with this for some time. When I fly, I often see the yellow smog hovering over Abbotsford and the Fraser Valley, blown down the valley from the road traffic in Vancouver. Flying my plane burns a lot of gas – about the same as a General Motors Yukon truck (14-20 litres/100 kilometre) (although I think that says more about GM than it does about my plane).

High fuel consumption?

High fuel consumption?

My plane uses almost twice as much gas per kilometre as my own car. A modern commercial airline plane now gets about 3.5 litres/100 passenger kilometres (with two pilots, we were getting about 8.5  litres per 100 passenger kilometres). Unfortunately, there is no green alternative – no electric planes. I try to keep it well maintained, to reduce gas and oil consumption, but I can’t get away from it, it is not an environmentally friendly past-time, especially if I add the driving to and from the airport.

I don’t have an easy answer to this conflict. I could give up flying altogether, but someone else would buy the plane and presumably fly it. Now I have done the cross-Canada trip, I need to look carefully at when and why I fly. On the other hand, I do have to fly regularly, otherwise it becomes unsafe. So the choice really seems to be between giving it up altogether, or continuing with a carefully controlled rationale for only flying when necessary.

5. The value of a GPS

I have a Global Positioning System, but rarely use it for flying, preferring to use the more traditional method of plotting routes and navigating by charts. Since most of the flying I do is on routes with which I am familiar, and for fairly short legs of no more than two hours, this works pretty well for me.

However, on this trip, we were flying through completely unknown territory, often for long distances. The plane does have a compass and a heading indicator, but they are only accurate to within five degrees or so. When flying on the same heading for more than two hours, just a couple of degrees can take you a long way from your destination. Also, unlike flying in BC, where mountains, lakes, islands, roads, rivers and the coast line provide very clear and recognisable visual references, we were often flying over terrain with no easily distinguishable features. Believe me, in muskeg, one lake looks very much like another, the land is often flat and visibility may not be good. Especially when flying over the top, sometimes we had no clear visual references at all.

Ernie gets a fix on his GPS

Ernie gets a fix on his GPS

Fortunately, Ernie was very experienced in using the GPS. Indeed, from take-off to landing, he depended on it, even down to lining up on the runway for landing. He also used it for all his flight planning. It proved to be invaluable on this trip, and I will make much more use of my GPS in the future as a result. I was impressed above all with its accuracy, operating most times within 30 metres or so in terms of accurate positioning. I just wish the Lowrence GPS that both Ernie and I use had a better graphical user interface – it really needs a keyboard.

However, I won’t give up on tracking my flight path on the map, and constantly checking the visual references with the map – it makes flying more interesting.

Flying by chart - the Vancouver Terminal Area

Flying by chart - the Vancouver Terminal Area

Sometimes, I would rather have flown within the valleys in the mountains or along a winding river, rather than straight over the top. But then we did not really have time on this trip to meander and dilly-dally, and the GPS kept us on track.

6. My plane is terrific

C-GHNC at Boundary Bay

C-GHNC at Boundary Bay

C-GHNC (Charlie I call it) is a workhorse. It was built in 1974, and has done over 15,500 hours of flying. That is an average of 1.2 hours every day for 35 years. For some periods, according to the log, it has been flying for over eight hours a day for several days a week. I don’t fly it that much these days, but it certainly got a good work-out on this trip. It has been used mainly for pilot training so has seen its share of bumpy landings. Flying schools in particular are closely inspected and have to maintain their planes properly, or they lose their license. Since buying the plane from a flying school (Altair Aviation), I have continued to maintain the plane to the same standard, through Nivens Aviation.

On this trip, I had only one problem, with the alternator, and I should have known this might happen, as I had the brushes replaced six months earlier. Generally, it’s probably best not to just replace the brushes but put in a new alternator, if the alternator is several years old, since a large part of the cost is the labour of removing and replacing the alternator (if you want to know how to change the brushes in an alternator, go to: http://www.ehow.com/video_4936007_replace-worn-alternator-brushes.html).

On this trip, I flew for the first time above 10,000 feet, which requires climbing at full throttle for several minutes. Charlie handled this superbly, and was able to fly for very long periods (five hours or more) without any problems. The long-range tanks were useful. The plane will probably fly for seven hours on a full tank, which is more than my bladder will last. We never pushed it to the limit, as you always need spare fuel in case you need to divert to another airport, or, as we had to do three times, return to the airport from where we started. The longest leg flown without landing was just over five hours, when we left Geraldton and couldn’t get into Sudbury and had to go back to Timmins. The long range tanks give you confidence though on such a trip – there is always spare capacity.

Now if I could just get a car that is as reliable!

Was it worth it?

Definitely – I’m really glad I did it. I’m a better pilot by far as a result, and I saw a great deal of this wonderful country and its great people in a very short period of time. I have much more confidence in my plane now – I know it will fly high, long and safely, as long as I look after it properly.

Will I do it again?

Probably not. Partly for environmental reasons, and partly because I don’t want to fly across western Ontario again – just too hazardous in bad weather. It would be better to fly commercially, then rent a plane locally when I arrive.

Any regrets?

I didn’t get to Newfoundland, and I didn’t get to see friends in Southern Ontario.

Conclusions

The main item is now off the bucket list (I gave up hope of playing soccer for England a couple of years ago, although I still fancy my chance as manager). I now have to work out what else I really must do before I die, but that can wait for a while…

Looking back on the flight

Looking back on the flight

Flying across Canada in a small plane

June 16th, 2009

tony-plane-1

To celebrate the 100th anniversary of the first powered Canadian flight, I will be flying my Cessna 172 as one of 100 planes travelling from Boundary Bay, Vancouver, to Sydney, Nova Scotia. The event is called the Cross Canada Century Flight

I will be keeping daily track of my progress, with photos, on this web site. Just click on each entry in ‘Pages’ in the column to the right.

To see the schedule, click here

For a promotional video about the flight, click here

Canada